Brigid Travels

Updates from The Road

Hi from Kiwi Land [2000]

I just wiped out my message with an unknown shortcut key, so I apologize if you already got one just now. Last time I wrote, I was between Madagascar and Mauritius in Nairobi. Madagascar was great, but the last day while I was hiking, when the rain stopped the mosquitos attacked me so have a plethora of bites on my calfs (or is it calves? I think calfs).

The flights have all been fine - only one with a mother I wanted to belt for not attempting at all to hush up her screaming child (who was too old to be putting up such a fuss, if you ask me and all the passengers around me). Mostly I read - 'Circle of Friends', a good book!

When I landed in Mauritius, I realized that I had not been surrounded by Westerners for over a month - it was kinda weird to be in a crowd of people I could understand. Most of the tourists there were British, plus a healthy dose of French and Indian. It's a very touristy island, as evidenced by the fact that Prince William was on holiday there a little while before I was there. The water is beautiful, as are the mountains that fall into the sea, but I guess I have been spoiled by being in places that have more raw power. So the night there was fine, but I was not overly impressed.

The next night I spent in Perth Australia, but after a late flight and all the customs rigamaroll, I checked in at 11:30 pm and had to leave at 9:30am. So what I saw of Perth was through a cab window. It did look similar to San Diego, as Tony said it would!

Last night I arrived in Christchurch and again went through alot of customs stuff for a few small wood things I bought in Kenya, and here they checked my boots to be sure I didn't have mud sticking on them. The Aussies and these guys are very serious about quarantine stuff. I had picked up 2 feathers - one in Ireland and 1 in Kenya and I have to have them fumigated before they can leave the country. I guess it is good to be careful - look what kudzu is doing to the southeast. Well, I guess none of you would know that story (imported vine for erosion control, took over uncontrollably, climbing on trees, killing them, decimating forests).

Anyway, I got into the hotel at 3:30 and had to get to the train station at 7am, and including jetlag I got 20 minutes of sleep. So I'm ready to greet the dolphins! In an hour, I do my swim in the ocean, and hopefully we'll see some whales as well.

I'll tell you about that next time! Brigid

another quick one [2000]

I'm back in Nairobi waiting for my flight to Mauritius, where I will spend tonight. And tomorrow night I'll be in Perth. Madagascar was very good - it was much harder to communicate there, since I don't speak Malagasy or French, but enough people spoke enough English for us to get ideas across. It is quite the land of disparity - such intense poverty but such intense natural resources, and my accommodations were very plush. I went hiking on the days I wasn't traveling, and it was very cool to see chameleons and lemurs in their native environment. The volume of wildlife was less than in Kenya, but hiking in the rainforest was really cool - and appropriately it rained. It took over 2 days for my boots to dry out. More on Madagascar later, as I have to catch my flight.

On the flight from Tana to Nairobi this morning, I read a copy of Financial Times from a few days ago, and I saw a little bit of CNN in Tana, so I'm starting to get reacquainted with the outside world, but very slowly. I can't believe I'll be home in a week. But between now and then, I have dolphin swimming, snowboarding and beach relaxation to accomplish!!!

Brigid

Madagascar [2000]

madagascar-flag-medium

Lodging

10/13 and 10/19 : 

Hotel Colbert

 – 23 Rue Printsy Ratsimamanga, Antaninarenina Antanananarivo 10/14-15 :

Vakona Forest Lodge

– Andasibe / Perinet 10/16-18 :

Relias du Masoala

– Ambatomasina-Andranonangozy BP10 Maroantsetra

Flights

10/16 : Toamasina-Sambava-Maroantsetra (Air Madagascar) 10/19 : Maroantsetra-Antalaha-Antanananarivo (Air Madagascar)

Flight Out

TNR-NBO 10/20 5:30am-8:45am (Air Madagascar 730); NBO-MRU 10/20 10:20am-3:20pm (Air Mauritius 535)

To See

Parc National d’Andasibe-Mantadia (Perinet), Nosy Mangabe, Masoala Peninsula, lemurs!

Notes

    • Antananarivo – Madagascar’s capital city is noisy, dirty and shockingly poor.
    • Toamasina – We drove from Tana to Toamasina through Perinet Reserve, stopping at the Centre d'`elevage et de reproduction, Marozeco Farm (roadside "zoo") and the Reserve Vakona, a private park on the grounds of my lodging. In Perinet we hiked through the dense forest looking in the treetops for lemurs.
    • Maroantsetra – I stayed in the wonderful Relias du Masoala across the bay from Nosy Mangabe. There were no other guests! I had guided hikes on Nosy Mangabe and Masoala National Park, via boat rides.