Brigid Travels

Updates from The Road

finally got some arrak [2005]

So right now, a few of us are in town to do some shopping for the community center. This morning we painted probably 30 or 40 signs, and this afternoon we will put lettering on them... not sure what they will say... I'll let you know next time :)

Yesterday we did beach cleanup again in the morning, and in the afternoon half of us went to the community center and half to the camp. I went to the camp and helped to teach a few adults appropriate Englist to use - one was a fisherman and we taought him how to say that he is a fishgerman that uses a net and a canoe, and he needs a net and a canoe. We aloso supervised some coloring, and others made leis of the gorgeous plumeria blooms wil a bunch of the women and girls.

This morning we did the signs as well as cutting out shapes with the spare wood - letters, animals, shapes. It was fun using the jigsaw! This afternoon after we get back from shopping, we will sand them and paint them.

Last night was a treat - we went down to a nearby nice hotel - the Tangerine. Gorgeous... our guesthouse is very nice, much like a dorm but the Tangerine was a beautiful western hotel, full of people from Europe. We had some good food and enjoyed listening and dancing to the local band, performing lots of random stuff, from Tom Jones to Abba, and lots of Ricky Martin :) I got some great pics of the group, including Damien taking over the mike to sing an Irish song.

1307-NightRide-BAY0068

Back at the guesthouse, we hung out for a while, got the guys that work there to write our names in Singhalese on our hands - a beautiful language. We got our first taste of the local alcohol, Arrak, which tasted alot like vodka. A few of us ended up playing a game similar to baseball - not sure if it is Irish or English or Scottish - that is the mix of folks here. Gillian, Joanne and Damien are Irish, but Nia is Scottish Hailey is English and then there was ne - I'm bad at baseball to begin with. But it was really fun. Unfortunately we were a bit loud, so at 2 or so in the morning Joanne, Hailey, Nia and I went out to the sea (accompanied, of course - we don't go out the gates of the place alone, and should not go out even in a group (especially of women) at night. It sounds worse than it is... you just don't know who you can run into. Then there was the 'motorbike' to try -- before we finally called it a night. Getting up at 7:30 wasn't very easy, and I was glad to do the work at the community center instead of the beach.

One thing that really struck me yesterday while cleaning the beach -- most of the trash is your 'normal' beach trash but what was a bit heartbreaking was the number of flip flops. I probably picked up around 30 or 40, of all shapes and sizes.

On a happier note, tonight a troupe of traditional dancers are coming to the guesthouse. Should be great, for 2000 rupees ($20).

Gotta go shopping -- not sure if I'll be able to check in before we go away this weekend. We leave tomorrow afternoon for Kandy.

Brigid

End of work day number 1 [2005]

Well, I got my luggage this morning at 6am. It was nice to finally get the rest of my stuff, and more clothes to wear :) But it did take quite a few calls to the airline and the courier. Luckily, another teammate, Damien, had lost his bag so between the two of us I think the delivery was accelerated. They say Sri Lankan time does not go by the clock, and that's definitely true.

Today was our first day of beach cleanup. So far the plan is to do that every morning this week, and plant trees every morning next week. There are about 20 of us, and I think we gathered about 60 bags of trash in 3 or 4 hours. Afterwards, a bunch of us frolicked in the sea for a bit to wash the sand and grime off. A good morning.

In the afternoon each day we either go to the camp of about 35 displaced families or go to the community center.Yesterday we arrived in the afternoon and went to the camp for a bit, so today I opted for the community center. A few of us drew some learning posters - letters, numbers, colors, etc. Others worked with the 5 or 6 kids that came to learn about 3pm, and the other 10 or 20 that came in to color and play around 4pm. We went back to the lodging about 5:30pm, a very productive day.

By the way, the food is excellent (especially for a vegetarian!).The team is great, and it is really helpful that there are 2 people that have already been here for 3 weeks, so they can fill us in, in addition to the project team members.

Today during the lunch break, a few of us rode into town, checked out the scene and used the ATM. Quite an adventure. Tonight 5 of us rode in the tuk-tuk (meant to hold 3) so the ride home will be another adventure, screaming by busses, inches away from motorcycles and bicycles... driving is an experience.

This weekend, some of us are going to the jungle and others to Kandy, a cultural center. I opted for Kandy, which will include a visit to the Temple of the Tooth (a sacred Buddha relic) and the elephant orphanage where I should be able to join the elephants in the river. Plus, it will be 2 nights in a nice hotel with air conditioning :)( It is quite muggy - reminds me alot of Georgia (the weather, not the environ!). And I shouldn't complain -- my roommate (Paula, a barrister from London) and I got the best room :)

Gotta go -- this internet connection is a bit spotty. I'll try to write again soon~

L Brigid.

Arrived in Sri Lanka... [2005]

...but unfortunately my luggage is not joining me just yet.

The flight in was fine, up until my backpack failed to appear. I put in a claim, they gave me some money to buy some clothes (4500 roughly equivalent to $45). My pickup from i-to-i was starting to wonder, I think, but I got in the transport safely.

The hour drive to the Blue Seas Guesthouse was quite an adventure. The road is shared by pedestrians, bikes, scooters, motorcycles, tuk-tuks, farming tractors (one had 4 people on board), what looks like motorized plows, and of course cars and trucks. Very interesting, and at times gripping (as in my hands gripping the seat). They have no respect for lanes or lines, which makes it interesting. All in all it was a fun ride, and took my mind off my lost luggage. Later I found out that a girl who lost her luggage on Tues go it on Sat, so I need to be prepared to manage for a few days. They assured me they would deliver it down to where we are staying, but she did call this afternoon to check on my flight number, which isn't encouraging - I gave that to her this afternoon. Luckily it is almost all clothes in that bag, so I should be fine.

I checked in and got a pretty nice room with a balcony - cold showers (which was welcome) and the water from the shower drained onto the outside wall and eventually the street below... interesting. But the proprietor was nice enough to give me soap - a very good thing! And he was very sweet about the lost luggage.

We all did a little walking tour this afternoon, and then hung out at a nice hotel - the Mount Lavinia - where I bought some clothes for an exorbitant sum (for here) - $16 for 2 tshirts and a skirt.

In any case, there are about 30 of us going to 4 or 5 different projects. Tomorrow we do orientation together and then go to our respective areas. Tonight I need to stay up to help proactively get over jetlag (13 hour time difference) so I'm going out for a beer with the ones who have either been here a little while, or who like me want to try to adjust schedules.

Gotta go - and tomorrow we leave the capital city (which to me is a cross between Nairobi and Antananarivo Madagascar...) and head down the coast.

:)

Arrived in Singapore [2005]

The flight was good - 16 hours, and we arrived an hour early. In a half hour I check in for my last flight on Emirates/SriLankan Air that goes through Kuala Lumpur before arriving in Colombo. I was able to sleep, watch 3 movies and read so I'm in good shape here on the 10th at 5am (I skipped the 9th!). It was weird to not see sunshinme, though, since we were chasing dawn the whole way and the sun still has not risen here.

I'll write again soon, and hopefully it will be more interesting than just logistics :) Brigid

Ready to go! [2005]

Ready to go! I'm ready a whole 20 minutes early - not sure that has ever happened to me before :) Just waiting for Danielle to pick me up - she's driving me up to LAX. Hopefully it won't take more than 2 hours, but we'll see how the traffic is. Thanks Danielle!!!!!

It still doesn't feel real, but I am ready!

Some websites: Sri Lanka Beach Cleanup Project: http://www.i-to-i.com/other/project/sri_con_beach.htm Home base - Kalutara: http://www.travelsrilanka.com/travel/towns/kalutara/index.php Sri Lanka news: http://www.island.lk/ Sri Lanka Tourism site: http://www.srilankatourism.org/

Sri Lanka [2005]

Just in case... Flight there, through Singapore leaves LAX 9:20pm Fri the 8th, arrive in Columbo 10:50am on Sun the 10th. (Singapore SQ19, Emitates EK6176) (renting car to drive from San Diego to LA)

First night: Blue Seas Guesthouse, 9/6 De Saram Rd, Mount Lavinia Rest of the time: Dias Sea Resort, 183 Abrew Rd, Kalutara N

Main Contacts: me: byentz@yahoo.com, 858 349 8926 (I'll have my cell, but not sure of the coverage)

i-to-i desk in UK: Susanna Lutman susanna.lutman@i-to-i.com ++44 113 205 4637

In Sri Lanka: Hemamali Palihakkara (Dr Pali) h.palihakkara@i-to-i.com ++0777-247848 (cell)

Emergency: ++44 (0) 113 205 4614

Flight home (all on the 24th), through Singapore leaves Columbo 7:10am, arrive LAX 5:30pm (Emirates EK6174, Singapore SQ20). (renting car to drive home that night)

 

Columbo

We spent our first night in Columbo, and then headed off to Kalutara.

Kalutara

We stayed here while we did tsunami cleanup work.

Kandy

We had a long weekend off, and headed to Kandy.

Negumbo

The last night in country we spent partying in Negumbo.

Alaska Cruise [2005]

The folks and I took a cruise to Alaska!

Vancouver

Vancouver was our jumping off point.

Ketchikan

First stop and we took a horse-drawn carriage around town and saw some very cool totems.

Juneau

We headed up to the Mendenhall Glacier and to the salmon hatchery on this day.

Skagway

Mom & Dad took the train up the gold rush pass, and I headed out to a bald eagle preserve that didn't have too many birds (wrong season).

Palmer / Hatcher Pass

We took the train from Whittier to Ancorage and then drove up to Talkeetna and down to Wisilla, Palmer and Hatcher Pass.

Moscow [2005]

I visited Jim and Doris in Moscow since I was "in the neighborhood" in Denmark!

Denmark [2005]

Copenhagen

We mostly stayed in Copenhagen.

Bornholm

We spent a long weekend only the wonderful island of Bornholm.

Ribe

Ribe is one of the oldest cities in the world.

Pantanal Earthwatch Study [2002]

I did an Earthwatch study in the Pantanal, at Fazenda Rio Negro, on the Rio Negro, which was incredible!

Round the World - The end of the trip [2000]

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Well, I landed safely at LAX at 2:15 on Saturday, and Cindy and Scott picked me up. They had a great welcome home banner for me, crafted by themselves and Rosa (thanks!). For those of you at work, I hung it in my office. For everyone else, I'll take a picture and put it up on the website with the rest of the pictures! It was questionable whether I would get home, though, because my 10pm flight from Fiji left 5 hours early so I missed it! Luckily I was at the airport early enough to get first on the stand-by list for a 7:40 flight through Honolulu (the other one was straight through). It's for the best that I missed the original flight, though, because I would have landed at LAX at 8am and not been able to get home for hours! The flight was fine, and I got a few hours' sleep, plus the bonus of an extra day due to crossing the dateline.

Fiji was ok - but there are still signs of the coup that happened in May. For instance, there was a manned sandbag-strewn raised bunker at an intersection outside of town. I went to an orchid garden, took a dip in a hotspring (but that is a secret because my guide wasn't supposed to take me there - it's where locals go), and did a wee bit of hiking to a point that looked over Nandi and off into the island-studded ocean. It really was beautiful, but the whole political/ethnic situation is aggravating the poverty and crime situation so I didn't feel all that comfortable there. I was not looking forward to spending the night there if I didn't get a flight out. But they were very excited to have a tourist to pay attention to - their season has been dismal.

Sunday I mostly slept, and I think I am almost over the jetlag and the daylight savings time switch :)

So that's it. Back at work today was good - I really did miss everyone! And I got most of my pictures developed (over 300 - not including Ireland films which are still en route, probably in the middle of the Atlantic on a slow boat). Some of the photos are great! And Cindy gave me great ones for the first week of Ireland, so really I'm just missing 2 weeks. I'll bring the pics to work for the next week or so, and eventally will do a whole scrap book with brochures, ticket stubs, narrative, etc.

I already posted all the emails that I have sent to my webpage (http://home.san.rr.com/brigid -> Sabbatical Recap). My plan is to get a webpage with narrative/highlights/favorites/FAQ/lessons learned/best stories/etc to go with the better pictures scanned in by Christmas (hopefully sooner). I'll send one more mass mailing to you all when that is done, and at that time I'll probably have a little travelogue shindig for those of you who are interested in the San Diego area (and Philly area when I go there for Christmas - plus I might have to go to DuPont and talk, too, since they have been following it!).

Anyway, thanks for hanging with me during my travails. I really appreciate all the emails of support I have gotten all the way through. And pretty much everybody said they were worried by my Mt Kenya tale - sorry about that. If you have questions, feel free to ask!

Until next time... Brigid

Fiji [2000]

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Flight Out

NON-LAX 10/28 10:00pm-1:20pm (American Airlines 739)

Notes

  • Nadi – I only had an afternoon here, and went on a pretty tense driving tour – they were gearing down from a coup a few months earlier.

in Fiji [2000]

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This one will really be the last (I think). I'm at the airport in Fiji, and it is 12:30 on Saturday. I'll be arriving home at LAX in an hour (thanks to the dateline). Tonga was pretty good, but the people on "The Friendly Islands" were a little too friendly - very nosy, which can be ok, but the guys were pretty slimy and gave a new meaning to 'leer'. I had read that they saw too many American movies and thought all American women were easy targets, so I was a bit prepared.

I arrived Wed and was grabbed by the first taxi guy claiming he was a tour guide as well (that's what his badge said). So he drove me to the blowholes where the waves spewed up through small channels in the volcanic rock. Quite dramatic. Then I saw a palm tree that had 3 heads (Edward was very proud of this genetic mutation) and looked at some bat-like flying squirrels high in the trees.

The first night I decided to stay in a hostel-type guest house, and afterwards decided to never do that again if I can help it. Nothing too bad, but just not clean, and the water was not very hot, and the roosters crowed at 4:30am. I was glad I had brought my own sleep sack, but still got a bunch of bites. Thurs I got picked up at 6 and flew to Vava'u, arriving about 9. I checked in at one of the most expensive places on the island ($50) and walked to town to see what I could do until the next day at 3:30 when I needed to return to Tongatapu in order to make my flight today. Unfortunately since it was raining a bit, I had pretty much no choices. The tourism woman suggested getting a taxi to the Tongan Beach resort and then taxi back to go on a boat if the rain had stopped. I decided to walk instead, not knowing how long it was - I had all day to kill. It took me 1-1/2 to 2 hours through some very lush palm fields, and it rained almost the whole time so I was soaked. But I made it there, and they said they did, indeed, rent snorkel stuff in the rain so off I went into the water. There were some pretty cool fish on the coral - blue, yellow, black/white. My favorites were the bright blue starfish and the fish that looked like it was spray-painted blue/green/yellow. The water is so amaxingly clear.

I taxied back to the paradise and took it easy the rest of the day. After dinner, I joined some New Zealand fishermen and together we sloved all the world's problems over a few beers.

Friday I walked around a bit and bought a book on Fiji's coups in the late 80's. The only books in the bookstores were religious, children's and history/art of Tonga. This one probably slipped in because of the regional historical aspect. It must be regulated by the King. Also, I heard an amazing choir practicing - hauntingly beautiful to be walking, checking out the chickens and pigs (and adorable piglets!) on the road and roadside and hearing that.

Back on Tongapatu, I stayed at one of its most expensive hotels, the Dateline ($50), which was exactly like an old college dorm. At least it had an ocean view and TV - I watched a BBC World report on how much mud-slinging there is in the presidential elections. And I think I heard the Yankees won the world series. So it appears I didn't miss too much :)

There were many people in the traditional garb especially on the island of Vava'u - woven mats tied around their waist. It doesn't look to comfortable or slimming, but it it very interesting to see the variations. Also, many people wore leis, either on their heads, around their necks or draped from shoulder to hip. All just as a matter of everyday life. Very pretty.

I'm about half way through the Fiji book, and so I'm a little nervous about being here, given their more recent political disturbances. But everything calmed down months ago, so I'm sure it will be fine.

Gotta go - I booked a half day driving tour. I had wanted to take a quick flight out/back on a little island, but since it is not high season the flights are not plentiful enough for me to do that.

In any case, I will be back home in a day! I can't believe it is over!! I'll send one last mass mailing after I get home, and I'll be putting a whole bunch of stuff on my website by the end of the year.

Brigid

Tonga [2000]

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Lodging

10/25 : horrible guest house, Nuku’alofa 10/26 : Paradise International Hotel, Neiafu, Vava’U 10/27 :

International Dateline Hotel

– Vuna Road, Nuku’alofa

Flight Out

TBU-NAN 10/28 10:20am-10:50pm (Royal Tongan 305)

Notes

  • Nuku’alofa on Tongatapu – I spent a miserable first night in a rooming house, and a better last night in the dorm-like Dateline Hotel. Beautiful, but the locals are a little too friendly.
  • Neiafu on Vava’u – I had a nice few days here, wandering around the island and meeting Kiwi fishermen!

NZ day 2 [2000]

Well, I didn't snowboard today - I slept instead, which is probably for the best. But I definitely have to come back here - I love New Zealand! I ended up reserving the last seat on the last bus from Kaikoura to Christchurch. I spent my last few hours there in the Kaikoura Bar with some very friendly and incredibly amusing New Zealanders - Adam, Matt and Kimi. Adam has a killer imitation of Beavis' Cornholio. Hopefully the picture will turn out.

I slept most of the ride home, being woken up only when I smacked my head against the window as the driver zomed around some of the mountainous curves a little too quickly. We got home almost an hour early (of a scheduled 3 -1/2 hour ride).

I woke up at 6, in time to catch a shuttle to Mt Hutt, but decided I was too tired to risk my life on the mountain today. So I slept, until about 3pm. I think it was a good decision.

This evening, I had dinner at a great vegetarian spot - Dux de Lux. Tomorrow I'm off to Tonga, where I probably won't have any more email access. So I'll send the last update after I get home this weekend.

Just 3-1/2 more days :( Brigid

Dolphin swim [2000]

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I really need to get a thesaurus. Everything has been amazing, incredible, intense, stunning or wonderful. Swimming with the dolphins was all that. We had a quick briefing where they told us not to touch the dolphins (they run away), don't flail your arms, but do make squeaking noises, do move rhythmically, do dive down under the water with the snorkel on if you can. They like those things, and will play with you. We drove out into the ocean about a half hour, and then found a suitable pod, without any babies. Moms (and nursemaids) were too protective so we couldn't be near them. On the way, the boat crew gave us 2 rounds of antacids (I think) which were supposed to function against sea sickness. I was the first one in the water and the last one out. We had full wetsuit gear on (including hoods, gloves, booties) and snorkel gear (mask, blowpipe thing, fins). Once in the water I started my rhythmic movement - I put my flippers together as if they were one and moved like a dolphin does. Very soon they came to see what was up. I was careful not to touch them, to keep my hands to my body, but they were so close it took effort. Initially there were 3 of them checking me out. Eventually I got into talking to them through my snorkel gear in alternatingly squeeky and soothing tones. And I dove down (as much as I could with such a bouyant wetsuit). Every time I dove down, a couple of dolphins came swimming by very close to compliment my effort. They were all over everyone - our boat had a dozen swimmers. They popped up and sometimes jumped around us. Every once in a while they would disappear, but always reappear when I tried to do my diving :) After a little over an hour, the boat sounded its horn and the last of us still in the water got on the boat. The dolphins seemed to know what was up, and crossed in front of me as I was trying to maneuver to the boat. To use an oveused word, it was amazing. One time, a dolphin crossed in front of me, then swung on hist back and sailed under me, looking at me over his white belly :) The water was so bright blue-green... the dolphins were black and white, just stunning. And when I looked out of the water, there were snowcapped peaks beyond the dark beaches. I loved it!

The only problem is that I missed the 4:08 train and the 5:45 bus was full, so I got the last seat on the 8:10 bus. I didn't realize it's a holiday here today, so everything is booked up. But I have to get back to Christchurch so I can (hopefully) catch a 7am shuttle up to go snowboarding :) Yes, I'll be careful - no broken ribs or back injury that lays me out on the floor for a week.

This web shop is closing - I guess I'll get something to eat while I wait for the 3 hour bus ride.

:) good day, despite the lack of sleep (I'll catch up in Tonga) Brigid